Safe haven

We have had to dock in Stavern and stay awhile to wait out a storm. Stavern is an excellent "uthavn" - an "outport" or smaller harbor, one of many scattered along the Norwegian coast. These harbours have played a crucial part in Norway's history, culture and economy and Agder County has just published a great website about the historical harbors in Norwegian: Agders uthavner and a shorter version in English here.

The word "havn" got me thinking about the English word haven. I had to look it up to be sure, and can confirm that it is in fact derived from the old Norse: hǫfn. 

There are many different kinds of harbors along the coast, and over the last 3 years we have experienced quite a few of them from Egersund in the west to Stavern in the east. There are tiny places where just a few boats can drop anchor and either find shelter from the wind or bask in the sunshine, take a dip in the water and enjoy the peace and quiet. Then there are the guest harbors, which we use a lot primarily because we are completely dependent on charging our batteries regulary. Most of these have full facilities like toilets, showers, washers and driers and either their own grocery stores or ones close by. There is also a wonderful culture in the guest harbors. 

The first time I experienced this was on our trip three years ago when we stopped in Båly close to the southern tip of Norway and the site of the spectacular restaurant Under. When we came into Båly, I was nervous about docking in front of a ton of people. So far, Reidar had pretty much done all of the docking alone in places he already know. I will never forget the sight of a couple walking over along the pier to direct us into a nice spot and then placing themselves next to the cleats in position to help us. All I had to do was throw them the ropes, and in seconds we were tied off. This was such a relief. Most of the time, you see this type of movement as people get into position to make docking easier for eachother. You usually exchange a few words. People are very friendly, and sometimes you even get invited onto a boat. The camaraderie gets even stronger when you are waiting out a storm, as we are today.

The modern guest harbors in Agder have been really great experiences in and of themselves. I remember buying fresh shrimp in Båly and enjoying them on the boat and exploring the beautiful area around the harbor. The facilities were great. You generally pay for your stay in the same way you would pay for parking in an app and you usually get a code for the facilities. Sometimes everything is included, but sometimes there is a charge for a shower or use of the washing machines.

My favorite guest harbor has to be Farsund. We spent several nights there on our first trip, and the harbor cleverly has a service building on both sides of the port so you are always very close to a bathroom, shower and washing machine. Everything was included in the one port fee, and if you get a spot on what I would call the best side, you are also very close to a dockside grocery store and the wine shop. Mandal guest harbor is also a standout, with great facilities and fresh baked goods dockside.

Our home port is Kristiansand, and we had the boat in the guest harbor over the winter this year. The Kristiansand harbor has a little restaurant as well as an ice cream bar but the best thing about the harbor is the guy who runs it, Kjell Anders. He really knows what he's doing and seems to be there around the clock helping people to find a spot and dock.

We spent most of June in Grimstad's guest harbor which is closer to our house. I LOVE Grimstad, but the harbor is unfortunately a huge disappointment at the moment. It has been under construction for two years and there isn't even a sign for the toilets. No way to know where to throw your trash. No wifi. No information other than how to pay. COME ON, Grimstad. Make a few signs and grab some duct tape - or have a little more information on the app.

Arendal guest harbor is definitely going for "best harbor" in Norway with a lot of space for boats. a swimming pool and a really nice dockside bar. If they knocked 100 kroner off of the port fee, they would have my vote but 525 is too steep, especially when the pool costs an additional 100 and the shower 30. 

Anyway, back to Stavern and today.